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It is possible, after reading our little review of the new Edelrid HMS Strike Slider locking carabiner that you wondered about the difference between a "normal" carabiner and an HMS version.

Let's start with an assurance that it's got not-a-thing to do with the service of any king, real or imagined. It's fair to generalise that locking 'binders come in three shapes; Oval, Off-set (or modified) "D" and HMS. The Oval shape is a bit old fashioned and while nice and simple fails to apply load to its' primary axis (in fact it doesn't even have a primary axis) and cross-loads too easily. The off-set design (typically the shape of snap-link carabiners used on quickdraws) is a vast improvement because it applies load allow the primary axis of the carabiner reliably and is more likely to turn, when rattling around on a protection system that is just coming onto load, toward its most favourable (strongest) orientation. The big disadvantage of the off-set shape is that it struggles to deal with more than one piece of rope (or carabiners clipped directly into it) at a time – ropes or 'biners tend to pile on top of each other in an awkward, unseemly mess. The answer is the HMS shape which has a nice wide, evenly curved base that allows elements of an anchor to line up next to each other in an Honest, Mechanised Sequence.

Actually, that's just nonsense. HMS stands for Halbmastwurf-Sicherung – German, roughly for "halfclovehitchsecuring". Some countries in Europe through the ages have fallen on hard financial times during which the purchase of conventional belay devices became impractical, thus the use of a "belay knot" evolved – the Munter Hitch aka Italian Hitch, Crossing Hitch or Halbmastwurf. Unfortunately the off-set carabiner shape is unsuited to the Munter Hitch (it works but it makes the knot even more clumsy and oval carabiners went out with the war) so apparently one or another wealthy neighbouring European nation invented the HMS shape. Voila! Friends helping friends.

Ideally (seriously again) you could use an off-set shape for belaying a single rope through an ATC type device or with any auto locking belay device (or in situations where you want the extra security of your rope running through a locking 'biner at a runner) – any time there is only one simple element at each end of the carabiner. Use an HMS shape for belaying double ropes (always through ATC type passive belay device), for tying Clove Hitches into or where you are connecting different elements of an anchor via a carabiner.

A couple of little – perhaps even useful – asides…
1/ a Clove Hitch will still hold security on an off-set 'biner (or even a small snap-lock if you are in a pinch) but note which side of the knot is going to receive load and put that side against the spine/main axis of the carabiner and…
2/ the Munter Hitch is a pig of a belay knot. It's awkward and it twists ropes terribly (be especially aware of this if you are forced to rappel multiple pitches on a Munter Hitch because the twisted rope/s will jam and tangle much more easily when pulling them down – I speak here from experience) but it's much better than offering your dear climbing partner a body-belay (or abseiling a la Dulfer Sit). If you climb long enough on multi-pitch routes you will sooner or later drop or forget your belay device. Learn how to tie a Munter Hitch and then, like taking a raincoat to a crag, you might never, ever need to use it.

Note: Much of the historical wisdom in this article is derived from the internet. Please do not bet your house nor your spouse against its accuracy.

Pictured is Rob Weiss – laser-tag keeper of the faith – belayed by Tom Moffat on the rather good new Yellow (grade: Very Hard) route on Rp 28. Previously the yellow hold-set had been used to make for some very difficult routes on this rope. This time we've switched it around with the blue holds making the grade:Desperate route and the yellow being a little more approachable (in truth, the blue holds only just scraped into the Desperate grade-range).

Also new this week are the routes to the left; Purple, White and Green. This is premium real-estate at The Rockhouse and we hope everyone enjoys these new additions.

The LHS of the boulder wall (at least the steep section, there is room for a few more problems on the vertical section), with the addition of another half dozen problems on Green holds is also finished and fit for many hours of frenzied crushing.

Next week expect a new lead route or two as well as new top-rope routes on what is probably my favourite rope in the gym – Rp 27 (immediately right on Robs' Route).

Happy Australia Day Weekend.

A great and candid interview by Simon Carter with Chris Webb Parsons.
http://www.onsight.com.au/2014/01/chris-webb-parsons/

Chris Webb Parsons interview
www.onsight.com.au
Chris Webb Parsons established Australia's first grade 34 route, White Ladder, and made the first repeat ascent of The Wheel of Life. He has spent the last four years overseas climbing and competing in World Cup bouldering competitions, representing Australia and doing us proud. Hear what he has to…

We've just received fresh stock of the classic PrAna Mojo shorts in solid black, grey and blue colours. I've had my pair (which are hand-me-downs, so I can't say exactly how old they actually are) for a couple of years now and they are still going as strong as the day they were stitched together. Light and soft, the absence of belt loops, press studs or other extraneous nonsense make them as comfortable under a harness as they are under a backpacks' waist belt. The tightly woven poly-microfiber fabric drys in almost a flash and the mesh pocket liners ensure you'll stay as cool as possible on even the warmest summer-evening climbing sessions.

We have a large range of PrAna shorts, trousers and tops on display at The Rockhouse, so much stock in fact that we can' fit it all on the racks so don't despair if your size isn't in view – we're very likely to have it out the back.

As can be seen, the LHS of the bouldering wall is full of gleaming, straight-from-the-scrubber, awesomely clean climbing holds.
After Tuesday evening (which, incidentally was a really fun with ropes snaking every which-way around the lead wall while a strong crew of guys and girls ransacked (at times literally, hey Dean?) the half-completed boulder wall – it was great, once again to see the Rockhouse truly rocking) I've made some minor changes to several problems which has mostly involved juggling holds to try to enforce sequences and adding a foothold here or there to try to accommodate every conceivable person, especially Ms Alex.
Today the yellow and red holds joined the fray, mostly bulking up the more moderate grades and coming quite close to matching the number of holds used in the previous set of problems even before the green holds and the problems on the vertical wall have appeared – these will have to wait until Monday, as will the final round of tweaks.
Special problems so far include the Red holds/Blue tape, Black holds/Yellow tape (unless you're really tall in which case you can reach through all the fun), Red holds/Red tape and the very generous Black holds/Beige taped super-classic.
Please Enjoy.

A story of Christams Passed…
(there will be no further mention of Christmas for at least eleven months)

http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/first-light-jesse-huey-and-hayden-kennedy-prepare-for-an-alpine-battle

With Christmas feasting and New Years partying all in the distant past it's time to get back to the one thing that really matters – Climbing!

We've started the year with a bit of a gift out in the lead-climbing area – the Purple holds (now grade 19) is the perfect warm up for those aspiring to harder things and an ideal route for everyone else still finding their feet without a rope above them. Late last year we also re-set both the green and blue holds-sets so if you lead and you haven't ventured out the back in a while, now is the time.

In the top-rope world there are new routes on the ever-popular pair of ropes nearest the bathrooms (Rps 30-31). The general bones of these routes are much the same although there is probably a bit better differentiation between the grades. Rope 30 (the one with the corner on your right) has some great climbing with the typical combination of wall moves with the corner to stem and rest against.

Next week it's time to lay into the LHS of the bouldering wall so boulderers be prepared to have a slightly diminished choice of probs until Wednesday evening.

Hope everyone had a great break, had excellent adventures and are as fresh and rosy-cheeked as we are.

Merry Christmas from Everyone at Northern Beaches Rockhouse.
Thanks for making this such a wonderful year.

The Rockhouse will be open today and tomorrow until late afternoon (closed for the evening) and will then re-open on Thursday 2nd Jan.

Please climb and travel safely and feast responsibly.

All The Best
The Rockhouse Crew

Christmas Stocking Filler…
Edelrid Bandit kids chalk bag – fully featured, fluffy lined, bumble-bee printed chalk bag for little hands.

Chalk Ain't Chalk.

Ever wondered about the different kinds of chalk sold at the Rockhouse?
Herein we briefly unravel some of the mysteries of the King Of All White Powders and talk briefly about hand care in general.

There are basically two type of chalk – pure (more or less) Magnesium Carbonate (Wild Country Chalk Shots and the new Edelrid Tubs) and Mag Carb with a drying agent added (Metolious Super Chalk) which arguably has a stronger or longer-lasting anti-sweaty-greasy-muck properties. Chalk in an alcohol solution (liquid chalk) is also available but is VERY bad for skin and is only really applicable to hard, sustained boulder problems where chalking-up mid-ascent is not possible.

Most people with chronically dry skin would be well advised to stick with the "pure" varieties of chalk while those lucky enough not to obsess over the n'th degree of friction can choose from the different textures – "pure" chalks tend to be lighter and softer while Super Chalk has a heavier, gritty feel to it.

Regardless of what sort of chalk you are using, be sure to wash your hands as soon as you finish climbing. Pay special attention to the creases under your finger joints and don't be afraid of moisturiser (in the old days the common wisdom was to avoid all forms of liquid – shower with gloves taped on, no washing dishes, nothing except a desert for the hands but thankfully time has tempered such nonsense and climbers are now expected to do their share of the washing-up even at the most dirt-bag of campsites).

If you are doing a lot of climbing keep an eye on the calluses that form between the finger pads (near the joints) – this thick, callused skin tends to get compressed into a band which then has a tendency to snag on holds and cause Flappers (the callus is ripped off leaving only a flap of skin) or Splits (the callus snags and literally opens a tear in the skin across the inside of the finger). Many dedicated climbers use a small piece of coarse sand paper to remove some (especially the edges) of the callus – a little bit gross and sort of hard to explain to non-climbers but then, lots of things are hard to explain to non-climbers.

Finally, as far as this relatively uneducated correspondent has heard there is no evidence that moderate amounts of chalk dust is particularly bad for people. Chalk itself is extremely soluble and relatively inert however the jury is well-and-truly out when it comes to the impact drying agent additives.